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    Wednesday, 9 September 2009

    Day Eight – Forbidden City and Olympic Village

    The Forbidden City was the enclosed home of the emperor, totally shut off from the common city folk. In fact it was only opened to visitors recently after the communist take over of the country in 1949.

    They say to take a half-day to explore the many gardens, throne rooms and out-houses. It is massive but a little repetitive, nevertheless worth the time to explore. Traditional architecture is abundant combined with monuments to the crane and turtle (symbols of strength and longevity). Large iron pots are dotted everywhere, originally filled with water and used as the primary fire-fighting defense. Many of the building have burnt down and have been rebuilt many times since their initial building in the 15th century. All in all, it’s a super large un-spoilt traditional spot and a must see visit.

    Leaving via the north gate, we noticed another palace high on a hill in the jingsong gardens, which would provide a perfect view down onto Beijing and the Forbidden City below. In fact the hill is artificial, created from the rubble extracted to create the moat around the Forbidden City. It was well worth the 300 or so steps.

    Leaving, we wandered around 90 minutes, heading east in search for the subway. We did find one, line 4, but it’s not open yet. This city is expanding and growing at an alarming rate. New subway lines are opening almost every other month! Imagine progress like that at home – I don’t think so.

    Finding the subway, we headed out to the site of the Beijing Summer Olympics of 2008. Rising out of the subway the “birdsnest” and “watercube” where straight in front of us. AMAZING AMAZING!!!

    You can actually get tickets to enter the “birdsnest” stadium, well worth it. It must have been something else to have been here last year to watch the games. During they stay, the soundtrack to the opening ceremony was played, almost haunting. The souvenir shop is still open, allowing you to pick up those last remaining 2008 souvenirs. Another must see.

    After a very long day of walking, we relaxed in the hotels swimming pool and Jacuzzi.

    Tuesday, 8 September 2009

    Day Seven – Temple of the Heavens

    We actually slept in today, leaving the hotel after 2pm! As we’re rather central to most of the historic sights, we walked around the area, leading us to the night markets, which had already begun. There live insects on sticks could be consumed or skewers of small hearts. Totally disgusting!! Naturally the market sellers jump into action the moment they see tourists.
    Taking in a local store, we picked up some bottles of Vanilla Coke. Coke is written in Chinese and only costs RMB3 (30cent) a bottle, a far cry from the €1.70 back home. If you buy from the street sellers, this drops to RMB1 (10cent).
    We wandered onto a new high street that is being built to replicate an old/traditional street. It’s must be 1km long, but contains modern/western stores like H&M and Zara. Building construction operates 24/7 here, so I’m sure they will have this area finished in time for the Oct 1 public holidays.
    Wandering around, we stumbled into a houton market. The houtons are narrow/labyrinth type backstreets, part of original Beijing, which more and more are being torn down to build their new city. The place was such a sensual treat; locals bought and sold all manners of items. Young and old mixed. We stood out naturally being the only two non-locals. A real treat and find.
    Our wanderings lead us to the Temple of Heaven and it’s surrounding park. Unfortunately it was too late to gain entry into the actual monument, but we did spend a good 2 hours wandering around the park, which was truly beautifully. The site represents the sun/heavens and earth through circle and square references respectively.

    There are three main religious buildings, each of which would have been used as part of a lengthy religious ritual to the gods. As would you expect, traditional Chinese architecture is to be found throughout the park. As it was closed to the public for many years, everything is rather intact.
    Leaving the park, we stumbled upon the Pearl Market, a 3 story indoor department like store of copy-everything. They had an entire section for Abercrombie, all fake and overpriced for fakes too. We tried to haggle down to €5 for a tshirt, but walked away when their best offer was €8 from an original €30.
    Oh we also found the only Apple Store in China, the open wifi connection allowed us to skype back home :)
    That evening we popped out to one of the entertainment district, a whole €1.40 taxi ride (around 15 minutes) were we visited a club. 

    Monday, 7 September 2009

    Day Six – Beijing Calling

    Like it or not, we’d an early start this morning, thankfully we’d stayed in last night. Taking a taxi outside our apartment, some €4 later we arrived at the Chinalink bus terminal in The Elements Shopping centre to take the 7:15am bus to Shenzhen Airport, in mainland China. It’s actually possible to check into your flight at the bus terminal, but for some reason, this was not working for our passports.
    The total journey time from Hong Kong to Shenzhen was a little under 90 minutes, taking a newly opened western corridor connecting Hong Kong to the mainland. At the border we had to change bus after clearing immigration. The complete immigration process was very smooth, the hall is quite long, Hong Kong at one end China at the other. Clearing exit checks with Hong Kong, where our visa was revoked, we moved to Chinese health check, were our temperature was taken (in case we’d swine flu) then onto Chinese Visa control.  The complete process only took 10 minutes. So fast, so smooth, nothing like the stories we’d read online. Leaving the hall, our connecting bus awaited taking us to the Airport.
    You can tell you are on the mainland as soon as you board the connecting bus as it changes from a right hand drive to a left hand!
    Arriving at the airport, we checked into our flight and changed €100 worth of Hong Kong Dollars into Chinese Yuen. Unsure of the currency, we didn’t think we’d have enough, but this was soon made clear when we ate breakfast at the KFC. A breakfast for two of us was only RMB20 (around €2).
    Shenzhen Airport is local, very local. No one speaks English. Everything is in Chinese, so be prepared to make lots of funny hand signals and get some weird looks from the locals. Even the toilets are local, so holes in the ground!! We boarded another Boeing 747, taking us the 3hours to Beijing.
    Arriving around 2pm, we made our way to the city and our hotel, Crowne Plaza. The Airport Express is the best way to get into the city. It only costs RMB25 (€2.50) for a single journey, linking you with the Beijing Subway, where we picked up their equivalent of an Oyster Card (The Beijing Smart Card). This was rather difficult as no-one could speak English and not many use the card. It appears to have been introduced for the Olympics last year, like a lot of the infrastructure in the city, but locals haven’t embraced, preferring to pay for single Journeys. The deposit is RMB20 (€2). We loaded ours with RMB30 (€3) to get it going for at least 1 or 2 journeys. However we learned a single journey to anywhere on the network is only RMB2 (20cent)!!!! Buses costs RMB0.4 (4cent). Transport in this city is VERY VERY cheap and taxis are included. A basic 2km ride is capped at RMB10 (€1), which is payable in either cash or using the Smart Card.
    To be truthful, we both felt a little frightened the first day in Beijing. It’s a massive city with a total area coverage equivalent to that of the entire country of Belgium. People are everywhere, contrast is apparent. People reacted as two white hairy legged Irishmen shared their local subway. Some laughed, others starred whilst some just took photos. This was something we weren’t expecting. Given the fact the city hosted the Olympics last year you would think outsiders are common, but this is not the case. You’ve lush rich areas beside backstreet markets. It felt more like eastern Europe then a capital city as we walked from the subway to the hotel, which itself is located in rich shopping area.
    Being a platinum member of their loyalty scheme, arriving into the Crowne Plaza we where ushered to the private members check-in on the 8th floor. We’d been given a business upgrade on the top floor!
    It was approaching 5:30, so we didn’t unpacked, just headed straight down the road to the nearby Tien’a min square. We like to walk or take public transport where possible, but a time saving tip is use taxis in this City. They are too cheap to be avoided! 1000’s of locals where gathered in front of the Chairman Mao image. Something was up. The Army were everywhere. They marched past using at alarming speed then started screaming at the crowds. We were then pushed back like a pack of sheep being herded by dogs. It was rather intimidating. I was frightened but wanted to capture as much on tape. As it happened, what we were witnessing was the nightly lowering of the national flag.
    This city is on constant alert. Police/Amy and guards are stationed almost everywhere in the communist uniforms’ rather like the Soviet or Germany Army during the world wars. They are turned out to impress and mean business. Entering the underground passageways or subway you’ve to pass Security control where bags are scanned and people are searched. It turns out the city is gearing up for the 60th Anniversary of the countries communist formation. Preparations are well underway and security is very tight.
    Standing amongst the crowd, we really felt like outsiders. The way we dressed, the colour of our skin etc. People again starred, one even asked for photo of her standing beside us!! Beijing is going to different!!! 

    Arrival into Beijing

    As this is being blogged, we should have touched down into Beijing International Airport. Whilst we have been staying in Hong Kong these past few days, it's considered a separate region with it's own governing model. This morning we passed over the boarder to China int Shenzhen and took off to Beijing on a 3 hour internal flight with Air China. Flying domestic like this saved us over €200 each and we get to do boarder control at Shenzen as opposed to Beijing. At the moment we are en-route to our hotel and will update later tonight with our first impressions of the peoples capital and real China!


    Sunday, 6 September 2009

    Day Five – Kowloon Park and Elements

    Given the fact we didn’t get to bed until 6am, we didn’t get out of the apartment until 4pm today. The main aim today was to find how to get to the Bus Station in the Elements shopping mall. The ChinaLink service provides a direct bus to Hong Kong to Shenzhen Airport in Mainland China. Their terminus is located in this shopping mall. In fact their service is so efficient you can also check into your flight at the mall. Reading some blogs beforehand suggested the service wasn’t running or takes too long. Rather then chance anything; we wanted to get to the mall to find out for ourselves. There are other ways of getting to Shenzhen Airport, but this ChinaLink service appears to be the best. Unfortunately their website is not in English.
    The Elements mall is located close to our apartment, so we decided to walk over to it via Kowloon Park. This park is really a community resource. It contains all weather footballs pitches, ponds, an aviary, shops including an icecream only McDonalds to both indoor and outdoor swimming pools! Perfect for weather like today when it’s 34c outside, with a feel like 40c. 
    The Elements mall is operated by the metro company, so as such contains the main Kowloon subway station and Airport Express. Free shuttle buses link the station to most local hotels, very handy if you are travelling by the Airport Express to Hong Kong International Airport. The mall is divided into 5 areas or elements (water, fire, wood, earth and metal) with each area designed to reflect their own element.
    We passed by Austin Road and Station en-route, which gave me some amusement as this is my brothers name. It was warm, too warm, so we were very pleased to be greeted by an Ice Rink as soon as we entered the shopping mall!
    The ChinaLink sales office is located on the first floor. The English speaking staff in bright pink uniforms were very friendly and provided us all the information we required. As our flight from Shenzhen was at 11am, we’d need to be on a 7:45am bus at the latest. So an early start for us tomorrow. The total cost for a return journey is only €14, amazing value when you take into account the €200 saving per person on flying from Shenzhen domestically as opposed to International from Hong Kong Airport. I’ll blog separately about our experiences and details on how to use the ChinaLink service to connect to Shenzhen again.
    After purchasing our tickets, we headed straight for food. Being brave again, we opted for a rather busy local restaurant were we order Dim Sum, pork and shredded chicken noodles. Chinese food here is NOTHING like at home.  There was too much food, we ate what we could and the bill was around €16 including tip for both meals. Amazing value.
    Some more wandering around the mall followed before we headed back to the apartment with food supplies before heading up to the Night Temple Market.

    Saturday, 5 September 2009

    Day Four – The Peak

    It’s great having you’re own kitchen with fridge etc . when on holidays. Whilst some, okay, most would argue the opposite, for us it means access to fresh food when you want. We kick started the day (well afternoon as we’re still lazy!) with a fresh fruit salad. A whole watermelon is around €1. Amazing value.
    We took the MTR, Hong Kong's Metro from Kowloon Island over to Central on Hong Kong Island, where we connected with The Peak Tram.  As we’ve already recommended, if you plan on visiting this city, get yourself an Octopus card. We were able to skip the rather long queue of visitors at the tram station simply by using our prepaid Octopus card. The Peak, some 800 meters above the city provides incredible views of the harbor from above the highest buildings. The entire city sprawls beneath you. The cost of the upward journey was around €3 and €2 to come down. The gradient is very steep, so be prepared to hold on! Great fun!
    Leaving the tram station, you enter the first of two peak shopping malls with some nice gifts to be had. We opted to eat in Burger King, how western of us. It was very cheap, fueling us for our hour-long trek around the summit walk, a 3.5 km pathway around the peak itself. The views are breathtaking. At one point, dragonflies danced in the air to the setting sunset above the skyscrapers and fishing boards beneath. Nothing can compare to the views from here. Truly beautiful; hard to find in another city.
    The most popular time for The Peak is at sunset. Most couples come up to see the sun set over The South China Sea and witness the nightly light/laser (and sometimes fireworks) show from the skyscrapers beneath. We opted to head down early to squeeze in some more shopping in the central area.
    Not only do you have all of the international fashion brands in this city, but you’ve the UK ones too. There is a massive Marks and Spensers, which we had to pop into. We left with some overpriced hot cross buns. Tasty!
    Taking the MTR we re-connected with Kowloon Island where we visited the evening gold fish and ladies markets. There are markets for just about everything in this city; you’ll find most in midtown Kowloon around Mong Kok. The almost 500meter stretch or backstreet dedicated to goldfish was a sight. Store after store with fish of all sizes in plastic bags for sales. Some fish were tiny, so had lots of room to swim, whilst others where so large all they could do was look out longingly for someone to free them. Larger stores offered full aquariums and accessories. Nestled towards the end of the market were a few pet stores with one dedicated to bull dogs only!
    The goldfish market lead nicely into the ladies market, which unlike the named suggests, is a 1km long narrow street filled with stalls selling clothing for men and women. You can buy copy-anything from D&G to the Gucci. We believe due to crack down in laws, they are rather open about the items being fake.
    Heading back to our apartment, we found a Beard Papas in one of the subway stations. As some of you know, I can’t get enough of these delightful cream puffs of happiness. They are a Japanese sweet chain, recently expanded to the UK. We picked up 4 cakes and went back to the apartment get ready for Saturday night out Hong Kong Style; we didn’t get back to bed until 6am! The bars stay open until 3, some later, with the clubs staying open until sunrise!

    Friday, 4 September 2009

    Day Three - Strolling around Nathan Road, Kowloon

    We got up around 11am but didn't leave the apartment until after 2pm. We're still wrecked from the travel and jet lag. The sun sets here around 6pm, so we've to take advantage of all available light.

    We opted to stay local to Kowloon Island, with the aim to walk up to Mong Kok to see the goldfish/bird and ladies markets. That didn't happen. We didn't take into account the massive shopping street called Nathan Road and the heat (33c with a feels like of 38c, thats 100F).


    View Day Three Stroll in a larger map. This is a map showing the route we took from bottom to top. The restaurant and symphony of lights viewing point are also shown

    The streets around Kowloon are bustling with all sorts of activities. You got major international brands like Body Shop and H& M sitting along side the many 100's of traditional chinese medicine boutiques with their weird and wonderful displays of dried fish and animal parts. The sights, the sounds and smells are are draining to take in when combined with the heat factor.

    We navigated our way along Nathan Road, a 2 mile trek, taking a break half way for some lunch. We'd wanted something traditional, I wanted some Dim Sum, the local favourite. We stumbled across a nice clean restaurant called Joys which had an English menu, so we decided that would do us. You've to indicate the quantities of each item using a pencil and grid on the menu. The items varied from Chicken Dim Sum to calves liver with rice.



    Naturally Chicken feet were on the menu. We settled for a selection of Dim Sum, one rice filled, two meat followed by some rice rolls (which might have been desert of sorts) and the vile Chicken with lotus leaf rice. The chicken and rice dish, was indeed vile. They must have had the bird in the kitchen and cut it up into random pieces. Our plate contains unidentifiable parts, including bone and skin. For an anatomy students, it perhaps was a good chance to examine cross sections of the chickens body, but for us, it was too much. Vinnie managed to pick some meat from the plate. I couldn't touch any of it. From the looks of it, stay away from chicken here. We did order two very strange drinks, one a milky black jelly the other milky red bean - both topped with ice shavings. The total cost for the meal was HK$107 (around €9.60).

    We never made it to the markets, deciding to head back to the clock tower viewing point along the southern tip of the Island to watch the nightly Symphony of Light show, the worlds longest running permanent light and sound show. Every night at 8pm, the buildings along the water front light up in a light and sound show for some 15 minutes. Using coloured lights and lasers, the harbor is transformed. Speakers are positioned around the viewing areas, otherwise the soundtrack is transmitted on the Radio. It was very beautiful. We've lots of great video footage which will be uploaded at some stage.



    Afterwards we walked back to the apartment, which is conviently located 10 mins away. We ventured a slightly different route back taking in a shopping street lined with every designer boutique you could imagine, from the Gucci to Prada. We appear to have all the BIG fashion houses on our door step.

    After some rest and refreshing we ventured out for some drinks locally. If we head over to Hong Kong Island we've to take a taxi back. Besides there are plently of places to visit on this side of the water. We started of in an empy Irish bar (naturally) located right beside our hotel. This was followed by three local bars. Smoking is banned in all indoor and most public spaces here, but the local bars on this side declare themselves as members only to get around this. Horrid. The bars we'd visited last night over on Hong Kong Island where more western and - well - smoke free.

    We retired to bed around 4am after another horrid chicken burger from McDonalds. Stay away from the Chicken over here! It's not Chicken!!!!